Domo Arigato Japan!

The blooming of the cherry trees in Japans spring certainly soaks up the season spotlight, perhaps obscuring  the drama of her cousins colorful costume changes, Fall.

Togetsu-kyo Temple Gardens, Arashiyama, near Kyoto, Japan

Fall color, Yudanaka

The journey to Yudanka to see snow monkeys is the definition of the journey better than the destination. The trip out the window from Nagano to Yudanaka was the epitome of riot of color. The mountains were on fire, and entire groves of trees looked like a zealous kindergarten class had colored them with bright yellows, orange, and red mixed together. If you decide to walk from the bus station to the entrance of monkey park, expect a long steep hill, several staircases and a relatively flat 35  minute walk  through     a                              beautiful cedar and maple forest.

Tips: 

Reasonable shoes. I saw a woman in heels in the woods climbing stairs. Don't be a slave to fashion in nature.

Cash. You will need it for the local train, bus (or taxi), entrance fee and any food. There is a bank near the local train station in Yudanaka. I would recommend approximately 5000 yen (approximately 50 USD)

With the Shinkashen ticket- expect your day to cost approximately 200 per person USD.

How to get there:

First-From Tokyo Station- take the shinkashen (bullet train) to Nagano (approx 160 per person).

Then, take the snow monkey express (or local train) to Yudanaka (approx 10 per person)

Last- take a bus then walk through a beautiful forest (approx 3 per person).

Ticket into park: 500 yen (approx 5 per person)

Sunny monkey with the delicious bounty

Orchards in bloom line the train tracks. Apples the size of softballs, grapes that taste like wine, and persimmon trees bowing under the weight of their bounty are waiting for you to enjoy. At the top of the hill from the final train stop in Yudanaka, friendly farmers fill your bag with nuts and fruit for less than 2000 yen (approx 20 USD).

    

 Monkeys small and large await your arrival. Most were grooming, while 

others soaked in the hot spring.

Japan adds color though its temples and castles. Not to be missed are the colorful torri of Inari, a temple that business owners visit for good luck at the beginning of the year.

Fushumi Inari Shrine, Kyoto

Kenninji Temple, Gion, Kyoto

The most colorful Jewels are the beautiful Maiko and Gekko (Geisha in training and Geisha respectively) of Gion. You may catch a glimpse of one if you are very lucky.

Maiko, Gion, Kyoto 

Geiko (Geisha, Gion, Kyoto)

Kanheri Caves, the quiet oasis of Mumbai

“Travel makes one modest. You see what tiny place you occupy in the world.” 

Gustave Flaubert

The Sanskrit chant fills the chamber, and the echo hits me like a shockwave. Although it is close to 100 degrees, the shadows of the cave and the beautiful singing of the guide washes over me like a cool breeze, and I shiver.

The Kanheri Caves, located in the Sanjay Gandhi National Park stands like a sentry, with expansive views of Mumbai. 10,000 Buddhist souls once occupied over 100 hand carved cave dwellings, constructed around   3 BC-11 AD. These dwellings served as places of meditation, housing and learning.  Today the occupants inhabit the forest- monkeys, deer, birds, and approximately 50 elusive leopards.

Everything old is new again: We love to pride ourselves on modern eco cycling and conservation, but you quickly realize this isn’t a new idea. Gutters and channels were engineered to direct rain water into underground cisterns for the hot summers. Many are still functional, and were filled when I visited in the height of summer with cool, clear water.  Small squares are carved near entrances, and were utilized to reflect light when filled with water, to enable the intricate carvings of Gods, Goddesses, Messengers and Children. Look for the permanent garden that is intertwined with the figures; lotus and daises abound.

ancient washing machine

The caves are a welcome respite from the heat, hustle and noise of Mumbai. When you have had enough of the bustle, over 65 acres of green lushness awaits you at the World Heritage Site. The main caves are an easy climb, but should you choose to visit the upper chambers be forewarned it is steep, slick, and at points, includes climbing/descending narrow steps. It is also advised to pack a small flashlight, many of the small sleeping chambers are too dark to explore without one.

Currently the road leading to the park is undergoing maintenance, and only locals are allowed beyond that checkpoint with a vehicle. The walk, although mostly flat, is approximately 2km one way. It is pleasant and scenic, with wildlife in the trees and calling just beyond, but make sure you have plenty of water, sunscreen, and appropriate footwear for all in your party. Be aware of naughty monkeys, such as this one who stole the remnants of my soda.

Gaudi of India- Nek Chand's Rock Garden, Chandigarh, India

And the vessel that he made of clay was marred in the hand of the potter: so he made it again another vessel, as seemed good to the potter to make it. 

Jeremiah 18:4

- King James Bible "Authorized Version", Cambridge Edition

Chandigarh is the first planned city in India, created post independence. Small villages were scrapped to make way for the new capital of Indian Punjab, and from the debris, a Gaudi like garden was born.

In 1965, Mr. Nek Chand, a road inspector, began to collect scraps of debris to secretly create a sculpture garden in a government controlled conservation area. Discovered in 1975, authorities bent to public outcry, and allowed the project to remain and expand.  Today, over 30 acres of sculptures created from bits of tile, sandbags, and clay pots have turned into a wonderland that truly inspires.

All of us have small bits of life that didn't turn out exactly as planned. If we can be inspired to pick up those pieces, and re-arrange them, like the broken bangles that created some of these sculptures, something that was once beautiful can be so again.

Smile desk

International travel can be hectic, and details are important. Flying into one airport, and not realizing your return flight IS NOT at the same airport can be frustrating and scary. Imagine the scenario... you show up for your flight and it is not on the board.

Checking the confirmation you realize you are at the wrong airport. Even if you could get there, you are definitely going to miss that flight.

You approach the counter. This one actually has a help desk called the smile desk.  I mean really? Can you imagine this conversation at one of your friendly NYC airports! There would be little sympathy and lots of ticket fees.

I explained the situation, took blame for not realizing that I had missed the airport change.  A polite kimono clad lady for Japan Airlines said, "Not to worry, there is a flight that leaves in 45 minutes. Would that be acceptable?"

Japan Airlines, you should be commended and emulated.

"40K feet and We are out of Fuel"

"Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen, we are out of fuel"

I had boarded the LA flight to Sydney on Quantas, to work with the Aussie team. I would be landing and head straight to work. Approximately 3 hours out, the following announcement was made in perfect chipper British English, "Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen, we are out of fuel".

Not exactly your typical overhead announcement. Long pause. Silence in the cabin. Ok, what do we do? Panic? Pray? Then a logical stream of consciousness... Where are we...we flew over Tahiti hours ago... New Zealand is too far south, what landmasses are between here and Australia that can accommodate an Airbus?

The announcement continued "The entire eastern seaboard of Australia is fogged in, and we will be landing temporarily in Noumea, feeding you breakfast and refueling. The delay shouldn't be more than 30 minutes."

"Noumea? Where is Noumea?" Was my first thought.  We landed uneventfully surrounded by lush, green foliage, and breakfast started to arrive.  From the window, I could see other large planes were waiting on the tarmac for the same reason.

Another announcement - "Ladies and gentlemen, it is with regret that inform you that during landing, a piece of the tire damaged the underside of the airplane. There are no mechanics on the island, they will have to be flown from Sydney. Two hundred families are on this plane, and we have two agents on the island. The moment the crew steps off the plane, we are grounded for 12 hours, so Welcome to Noumea."

Fortunately I had packed one set of summer type clothes, for it was November, springtime in Australia.
We immigrated into French Polynesia, started making friends of our fellow passengers, and I texted my corporate office from a fellow passengers cell to let them know where I was, since my cell wasn't working.

We boarded a bus, and within minutes, gorgeous beaches could be found zipping by the window. We turned the corner and a American budget hotel was on my left, directly across from the beach. That will work, I thought! But we kept going. Little did I know that they had arranged a 5 star hotel, beach barbecue and a beautiful seafood dinner that night. I would also make lifelong friends, during our short detour.

The views from my beachfront room were of kite surfers zipping across the coastline. Colorful parrots squawked noisily among the trees during a leisurely walk along the beach to town.

My Internet correspondence to my corporate office complete with beachfront photos was titled, "Marooned in Paradise". One of the VP's asked if I had planned to land in Noumea, and I quickly told him that if I was capable of convincing a pilot to land a jumbo jet on a tropical island, I would no longer be working for him!

So paradise was a great way to get of jet lag. I highly recommend it. And Quantas, Thank You for making   a unavoidable situation into one of my favorite travel stories.

Infinity inspiration

Lying on the floor of the Four Seasons hotel bathroom was not my idea of a great way to begin my 3 week journey to India. Unfortunately, I had a contaminated meal the evening before at an outside of the hotel establishment, and hadn't felt right all day.  We were hosting  30 physicians for a medical lecture that evening in this beautiful hotel. I was so sick, I disappeared unannounced.

My frantic colleagues had searched for me for over an hour, before sending in the staff of this well appointed, public hotel bathroom.  As soon as they saw my condition, they wisked me up to the hotel spa, so I could lie down.  I certainly had wanted to visit the spas of India, but not in this way! My colleague refused to leave my side. I could see his concern, and honestly felt bad enough that if I died that night, I was ok with it.

My other colleague pulled a guest from the audience, a kind vascular radiologist, Dr. Girish Warawdekar.  He said to me, "Heather, you are running a fever. It must break before we can give you anything. Do you want to be admitted to a hospital?" At the same time, he wrote a prescription, and sent the hotel staff after it.

Being in a foreign country, and having worked in several hospitals that week, I was concerned about being admitted, so I declined.  Dr Warawdekar injected Zofran (miracle drug for severe nausea, typically given to cancer patients) and I immediately felt well enough to be transported back to my hotel.  I thanked him profusely, and promised to look after him and his family, should he ever come to the US.

The next year he did attend a medical conference in the US, and I had the opportunity to share my pictures of the trip after my sickness, including a beautiful Hindu wedding I attended, as well as the amazing trip across Rajasthan with Palace on Wheels. I wanted to show him that  his care allowed me the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of India.

And now infinity. I am at a dinner with another Doctor, originally from Goa, who tells me about this incredible mission he has in Mumbai, where they utilize expired medical products as well as recycle cadaver heart defibrillators for people who otherwise cannot afford medical care. Ironically, I had just worked with a hospital that had expired medical devices, and they knew I traveled for work to third world countries, and asked if I could help them to donate. The Doctor he works with in Mumbai? Girish Warawdekar, the same Doctor who saved my life in Mumbai.