Kanheri Caves, the quiet oasis of Mumbai

“Travel makes one modest. You see what tiny place you occupy in the world.” 

Gustave Flaubert

The Sanskrit chant fills the chamber, and the echo hits me like a shockwave. Although it is close to 100 degrees, the shadows of the cave and the beautiful singing of the guide washes over me like a cool breeze, and I shiver.

The Kanheri Caves, located in the Sanjay Gandhi National Park stands like a sentry, with expansive views of Mumbai. 10,000 Buddhist souls once occupied over 100 hand carved cave dwellings, constructed around   3 BC-11 AD. These dwellings served as places of meditation, housing and learning.  Today the occupants inhabit the forest- monkeys, deer, birds, and approximately 50 elusive leopards.

Everything old is new again: We love to pride ourselves on modern eco cycling and conservation, but you quickly realize this isn’t a new idea. Gutters and channels were engineered to direct rain water into underground cisterns for the hot summers. Many are still functional, and were filled when I visited in the height of summer with cool, clear water.  Small squares are carved near entrances, and were utilized to reflect light when filled with water, to enable the intricate carvings of Gods, Goddesses, Messengers and Children. Look for the permanent garden that is intertwined with the figures; lotus and daises abound.

ancient washing machine

The caves are a welcome respite from the heat, hustle and noise of Mumbai. When you have had enough of the bustle, over 65 acres of green lushness awaits you at the World Heritage Site. The main caves are an easy climb, but should you choose to visit the upper chambers be forewarned it is steep, slick, and at points, includes climbing/descending narrow steps. It is also advised to pack a small flashlight, many of the small sleeping chambers are too dark to explore without one.

Currently the road leading to the park is undergoing maintenance, and only locals are allowed beyond that checkpoint with a vehicle. The walk, although mostly flat, is approximately 2km one way. It is pleasant and scenic, with wildlife in the trees and calling just beyond, but make sure you have plenty of water, sunscreen, and appropriate footwear for all in your party. Be aware of naughty monkeys, such as this one who stole the remnants of my soda.